One thought on “Guanacos everywhere running out of fuel and the magnificent Mount Fitzroy ”
21st Jan 2017: Mt Fitzroy
Day 35-36
We travelled back to the main road and continued in search of petrol. Apart from the lack of cash, we learnt that petrol could be scarce in this area too, probably due to the vast distances for deliveries to keep pace with demand. Farmers could drive in and fill tanks and tanks of petrol in the back of their trucks. We were lucky in that they had petrol, but unlucky in that they wanted cash and we gave them all the Argentinian pesos we had.
At the filling station, we saw a motorbike with a UK number plate! And inside we met a great couple from Tavistock!! We hit it off immediately and could have talked to them all day, so we exchanged emails and will have a proper catch up when we get home.
Way back in Santiago, we were advised to buy a petrol container, so did so as we started driving the Carreterra Austral. We’d had it over a week and had started to wonder if we should have bothered, as we’d found petrol stations in the most remote places.
But they were right. During our long drive and in the middle of nowhere we finally ran out of petrol. The peace of mind that little 10L tank in the back, paid for its cost 100 times over. Neil emptied the 10L into the tank and we continued safely towards El Chalten.
These roads are so strange. After days of dust, 40km before El Chalten the road became a brand new mettled road. We floated along the smooth road towards the glacier lake, Lago Viedma, turquoise coloured from the minerals in the melting ice. Ahead of us, Mount Fitzroy spired high above the other snow capped mountains. It was so steep that snow couldn’t settle on it. As we approached the mountain range, trees appeared as the landscape turned into a lush green valley.
El Chalten in a tourist resort at the base of the mountains, for hikers, mountain climbers, cyclists, and white water rafting. It was full of life, with hikers carrying huge heavy rucksacks and pretty shops and cafes lining the streets. We found the tiny campsite which was chock-a-block full of tents, so we drove on and found a quiet little barbecue area sheltered from the wind. Since free camping is allowed all over S America, we often wonder why people chose these cramped campsites when there are beautiful spots just around the corner. Most campsites will allow non-campers to use their showers etc for a small fee.
So…. we headed straight to the 2 ATMs in town, neither of which had money. Oh dear! Most places don’t take credit cards either, but we found a wacky restaurant full of memorabilia hanging from the walls and ceiling where we had a delicious bowl of soup each. Luckily, they took US dollars, but even those were beginning to run out.
Neil suggested a walk before bed. I heard “it’s only one and a half hours”. I missed the word “there”! Ha ha. But it was fine as the nights are long here and darkness falls around 10.30.
We walked through such pretty scenery passing waterfalls gushing with glacial waters up to a lower view point of Mt Fitzroy.
Just after we got back for supper, the heavens opened. The wind lashed the rain against our campervan and we were forced into our first complete meal cooked and eaten inside the van.
It was hilarious! The whole of the back of the van behind the seats is a bed. So, from within the van, we stuffed all the bedding into the front 2 seats and managed to erect the table in the middle which had been part of the base of the bed. Then I had to suspend myself upside down, with Neil hanging on to my feet, to reach the food stacked at the back of the van. You can imagine the Malbec was flowing quite freely now! We could open the back hatch door as we always park facing the wind. But if any other window opened just a crack, the wind would roar through the van taking everything with it.
And so, with our delicious Malbec wine, we had our first and successful supper for 2 inside. All that was missing was the candles.
We slept so incredibly well! The wind gently rocked the van through the night and when we awoke, the rain was gone!!
We had a fresh new exciting day ahead of us.
Out came our walking boots for the first time, and we set off on a major hike up to a glacial lake just under Mt Fitzroy.
It has become our top walk of all time. It was beautiful. The mountains were dramatic, and the icy mountain streams gushed past us. We’d walk over makeshift bridges of just one log lying over the river. Or there’d be flimsy bridges for for just one person at a time.
It’s a popular walk so we were certainly not alone, as everyone made their way up the mountain path. An American student from Cornell latched onto us for quite a way. He had a brain the size of a planet and was fascinated by everything. He was a very well travelled mountain climber and wore us out with his enthusiasm! I was excited for him as he’s secured a job with Google after his travels.
Up and up we went. My vertigo kicked in occasionally but not enough to stop me, and after 5 hours of walking, we reached the top of the view point.
It’s hard to explain how one feels with these views. It was magnificent. We stood there in awe of nature. We’d climbed 2500ft in elevation. On one side we looked down into the turquoise icy lake. A group of young men were messing about jumping into the freezing waters in their swimmers. On the other side we could see across mountains and down into the valley and across the plains for as far as the eye could see.
After 10 hours of walking, we decided to drive to find s restaurant which would take credit cards. We found the perfect place which was a bit posh! I had a massive steak (they really are the best in the world) and Neil really enjoyed his lentil vegetable stew. The wine, of course, was delicious and our jovial Argentinian host lived speaking English and talking rugby.
South America 
21st Jan 2017: Mt Fitzroy
Day 35-36
We travelled back to the main road and continued in search of petrol. Apart from the lack of cash, we learnt that petrol could be scarce in this area too, probably due to the vast distances for deliveries to keep pace with demand. Farmers could drive in and fill tanks and tanks of petrol in the back of their trucks. We were lucky in that they had petrol, but unlucky in that they wanted cash and we gave them all the Argentinian pesos we had.
At the filling station, we saw a motorbike with a UK number plate! And inside we met a great couple from Tavistock!! We hit it off immediately and could have talked to them all day, so we exchanged emails and will have a proper catch up when we get home.
Way back in Santiago, we were advised to buy a petrol container, so did so as we started driving the Carreterra Austral. We’d had it over a week and had started to wonder if we should have bothered, as we’d found petrol stations in the most remote places.
But they were right. During our long drive and in the middle of nowhere we finally ran out of petrol. The peace of mind that little 10L tank in the back, paid for its cost 100 times over. Neil emptied the 10L into the tank and we continued safely towards El Chalten.
These roads are so strange. After days of dust, 40km before El Chalten the road became a brand new mettled road. We floated along the smooth road towards the glacier lake, Lago Viedma, turquoise coloured from the minerals in the melting ice. Ahead of us, Mount Fitzroy spired high above the other snow capped mountains. It was so steep that snow couldn’t settle on it. As we approached the mountain range, trees appeared as the landscape turned into a lush green valley.
El Chalten in a tourist resort at the base of the mountains, for hikers, mountain climbers, cyclists, and white water rafting. It was full of life, with hikers carrying huge heavy rucksacks and pretty shops and cafes lining the streets. We found the tiny campsite which was chock-a-block full of tents, so we drove on and found a quiet little barbecue area sheltered from the wind. Since free camping is allowed all over S America, we often wonder why people chose these cramped campsites when there are beautiful spots just around the corner. Most campsites will allow non-campers to use their showers etc for a small fee.
So…. we headed straight to the 2 ATMs in town, neither of which had money. Oh dear! Most places don’t take credit cards either, but we found a wacky restaurant full of memorabilia hanging from the walls and ceiling where we had a delicious bowl of soup each. Luckily, they took US dollars, but even those were beginning to run out.
Neil suggested a walk before bed. I heard “it’s only one and a half hours”. I missed the word “there”! Ha ha. But it was fine as the nights are long here and darkness falls around 10.30.
We walked through such pretty scenery passing waterfalls gushing with glacial waters up to a lower view point of Mt Fitzroy.
Just after we got back for supper, the heavens opened. The wind lashed the rain against our campervan and we were forced into our first complete meal cooked and eaten inside the van.
It was hilarious! The whole of the back of the van behind the seats is a bed. So, from within the van, we stuffed all the bedding into the front 2 seats and managed to erect the table in the middle which had been part of the base of the bed. Then I had to suspend myself upside down, with Neil hanging on to my feet, to reach the food stacked at the back of the van. You can imagine the Malbec was flowing quite freely now! We could open the back hatch door as we always park facing the wind. But if any other window opened just a crack, the wind would roar through the van taking everything with it.
And so, with our delicious Malbec wine, we had our first and successful supper for 2 inside. All that was missing was the candles.
We slept so incredibly well! The wind gently rocked the van through the night and when we awoke, the rain was gone!!
We had a fresh new exciting day ahead of us.
Out came our walking boots for the first time, and we set off on a major hike up to a glacial lake just under Mt Fitzroy.
It has become our top walk of all time. It was beautiful. The mountains were dramatic, and the icy mountain streams gushed past us. We’d walk over makeshift bridges of just one log lying over the river. Or there’d be flimsy bridges for for just one person at a time.
It’s a popular walk so we were certainly not alone, as everyone made their way up the mountain path. An American student from Cornell latched onto us for quite a way. He had a brain the size of a planet and was fascinated by everything. He was a very well travelled mountain climber and wore us out with his enthusiasm! I was excited for him as he’s secured a job with Google after his travels.
Up and up we went. My vertigo kicked in occasionally but not enough to stop me, and after 5 hours of walking, we reached the top of the view point.
It’s hard to explain how one feels with these views. It was magnificent. We stood there in awe of nature. We’d climbed 2500ft in elevation. On one side we looked down into the turquoise icy lake. A group of young men were messing about jumping into the freezing waters in their swimmers. On the other side we could see across mountains and down into the valley and across the plains for as far as the eye could see.
After 10 hours of walking, we decided to drive to find s restaurant which would take credit cards. We found the perfect place which was a bit posh! I had a massive steak (they really are the best in the world) and Neil really enjoyed his lentil vegetable stew. The wine, of course, was delicious and our jovial Argentinian host lived speaking English and talking rugby.
The end of another amazing day.
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