San Blas IslandsOur Colombia to Panama sail boat was full of surprises. The 48′ sailing boat, Mintaka, was owned by a German couple Petra and Manfred who are exactly our ages and who’d been living on it for 25 years all over the world. It was all very organised and safe sailing and Petra is a great cook.
The yacht sleeps 8 in the cabins and 2 on the deck benches. Heaven knows how they fit 10 around the meal table on deck. There was a big bed in the stern cabin which tightly sleeps 3, then a tiny single bunk box which reminded me of Admiral Nelson’s bunk beds for 1, then a small double in the middle section for 2 in the same area as the kitchen and loo, and a small double triangular bed in the bow.
It’s a popular boat with back packers and is usually fully booked. But this trip was marred with cancellations and young people trying to get them to drop the price last minute. They refused so in the end we were just THREE!!!! Yippee!!!
Neil and I had the astern triple, Viborg, also German and 26, had the middle double and the owners shared the remaining beds as necessary. 
Most of our luggage was stored in the ‘hold’ which turned out to be the shower as we showered on deck. 

There was only space for a shoe box of possessions each which was fine. 
We were very excited to be sailing out of Cartegena although a little sad to be leaving S America, maybe for a long time. Who knows? We hope not. 
We sailed a whole night, all day, and the following night in rough seas and a gale force 6 winds. We sped through at a great rate but boy it was bumpy. I thought the Caribbean Sea would be calm and restful, but noooooo! I had my feet up against the side of the cabin to stop sliding around at night. The hatch was closed as it was raining so it became really hot. Neil and I were both spread eagled at times. Thank heavens there wasn’t a third person with us. 
Our poor young German friend vomited all the first night, then all the next day and all the second night. He was so grateful to have his little double bed to himself instead of vomiting over someone else! 
And heaven knows how Petra managed to cook as the boat lurched incessantly. Neil and Viborg wisely declined her chilli con carne the second night, so I valiantly accepted and managed most of it. Fortunately Neil and I popped pills and stayed free from sea sickness. 
All got better when we arrived at the tiny, beautiful San Blas islands where we sailed for 3 days through calm turquoise seas. Now this was my picture of the Caribbean. There are about 365 tiny tropical islands surrounded by pure white sand and covered in coconut palms. Some islands were less than 10m in diameter and all stood on rock and coral at a maximum of a metre above sea level. One couldn’t help thinking that one freak wave or a thawed arctic ice shelf would wipe out all of these native Kuna communities. They are so very vulnerable to climate change. 
We snorkelled as often as we could in the warm waters through the colourful, treacherous reefs surrounding the islands hidden just inches below the surface. We saw quite a few shipwrecks from our boat where navigation had become a precise science. (Good job we had a German skipper!). We’d swim through huge shoals of tiny fish darting around bigger fluorescent fish feeding busily on the coral and sea plants swaying gently. We even saw the occasional stingray and huge sea urchins hiding in rocky crevices with spines over a foot long, reminding me of my painful experience in Peru. Only yesterday I dug out a spine which had been in my foot for 6 weeks! 
We visited a few inhabited islands where the Kuna people had built palm huts. The tiny traditional ladies covered their arms and legs with colourful rings of tiny beads although the younger girls were more western. We bought 2 of their brightly embroidered mola designs to take home and frame. 
One afternoon we played volleyball with the islanders which was great fun. Sadly alcohol has arrived and many islanders drink too much, but it did add a bit of amusement. 
After 3 glorious days, we had one last rough overnight sail to get to mainland Panama and I must confess to being happy to be on terra firma again. 
Petra and Manfred have a full boat going back to Colombia and have turned away 10 people. Neil and I are still counting our blessings that we were just 3 passengers. What an unusual life they lead, sharing their home with 8 strangers every week. Neil and I count our blessings to have a lovely land base home in Devon.