PANAMA: Not sure what to expect . Portobelo where our boat journey ended is steeped in history. Sir Francis Drake is somewhere in the bay in a lead lined coffin after contracting dysentery . Henry Morgan sacked the place . The northern Panamanian coast is in truth the Spanish Main . As Spanish power began to dwindle so did England’s Corsairs Pirates and Buccaneers begin to assume th ascendency of the seas . We robbed and pillaged our way to victory. Panama itself as a country once it rid itself of its colonial master the USA is full of bio diversity and of course the canal . I could bash on for pages about it but I think I will let the pictures do the talking . It is a great tax haven and home to 180 banks . Very congested traffic is a nuisance but the old city is now being heavily restored just in time .

All too soon it was time to catch a flight to New York . We always thought we would come back this way . We have been very fortunate to stay in Ceri’s friend Pam’s faboulus apartment just off Central Park . She is sadly away discussing Cocoa futures in London. Of course the main reason to be here is so that mum and daughter ( Cara ) can have some time together . Watching the two give each other a hug was a real tear jerker . How long can people hug for ? We were lucky enough to join Cara at her leaving do for her company Futerra. What a lovely group of people , even if old deaf ears couldn’t hear much ! Aspinalls the British cider maker is doing well selling a bottle at $10 a pop ! Cara is moving back to England with Andrew so we will be able to see much more of them .

Writing a blog is something Ceri and I have never done before . Why do people do it ? Is it a sort of self- aggrandisement process of ‘look at me ‘or is it a sort of diary to self or as in my case at least I hope a sort of cross between letting family and friends know what were up to and hoping that people can maybe visit some of the places we have been too. Ceri and I will probably print it all off one day and ponder it over in our dotage not remembering exactly what we did or why . Already some of the place names fade and we both have trouble remembering how we got from A to B . Is this really dementia or just the natural filtering of all the stuff we have experienced. Here in New York ( as we can now speak English) . We are often asked what was the best and worst of times . We both have fun trying to mental lists of those things . We can both say that easily the worst of things was simple .

Loss of lap top . In its own way although annoying it had its funny side being escorted in a riot van in Quito to tourist police . It’s just ‘stuff ‘ when all said and done . People ask often did we get sick much . My medical kit ( mostly gash drugs mostly out of date …. as my family knows …. remains unused ).We both had one day of non alcoholic illness and that is all . Speaking of which we very rarely had much to drink anyway . We became very British in our habits and we are both experts in Andean gin prices . We usually carried a bottle and some tonic and had one …. well occasionally two most nights when supplies were available. Moving on then to other lists 

Most amazing nature : Galapagos and Patagonia and the Andes.

Archaeology/ Ruins : Kuelap, Nazca lines, Chan Chan , Moche dynasty , Inca waterway Cajamarca . Here I am copying Ceri’s notes which are really both of ours .

Neil has asked me to write down my highlights. There are so many. In four and a half months we didn’t have s single bad day or an argument. 
Having the campervan for a month was a huge highlight which included so many beautiful places to camp at night and so many sunrises and sunsets. So many mountains and walking paths. Sailing around the Galápagos is right up there as a favourite.I loved the pre Inca ruins at Kuelap in Peru, just south of the Ecuador border. We were the only people there and the only people on the brand new cable car. The other pre Inca ruins of Chan Chan and Sol el Luna near Trujillo were also beautiful and impressive. 

Our Las Olas accommodation in Copacabana on Lake Titicaca was my favourite. It was like sleeping in a little house designed by Gaudi. Also the converted monastery in Popayan, Colombia was wonderful. I still like 5*.
Seeing Machu Picchu in Peru had been a dream for 40 years. Whilst it wasn’t my favourite day weather wise, it was a dream fulfilled on my birthday. And the nearby town of Ollantaytambo was a favourite. 
Iguassu Falls were spectacular, especially boating into the cascading waters. 
My favourite bus was definitely the Argentinian overnight bus to Buenos Aires which had seats like a first class plane and red wine. 
We’re not real foodies but I did love my Alpaca steak overlooking the square in Cusco sipping my pisco sour. 
My favourite shop was definitely Eduardo Segovia’s huge pottery shop in Cuenca in Ecuador. ( Neil none )
My favourite town is probably Vilcabamba in southern Ecuador, although Cusco and Cajamarca in Peru were pretty wonderful. 
My favourite mountain was Fitzroy, named after the captain of the Beagle. 
I loved the massive abandoned Estancias or farmhouses in Tierra del Fuego. The grave yard was full of English people killed by Indians or childbirth etc. What tough people they were. 
We spend many many days and nights on buses through the most spectacular scenery with such dramatic hairpin bends through deserts, rainforests, farm lands. S America must surely be the most beautiful continent. 
The only day I didn’t really enjoy was the sailing a night, a day and a second night on rough seas unable to read or do anything except watch the waves. A few hours would be fine as it was exciting, but 36 hours was a bit boring. However the San Blas islands definitely made it worth while. 
I really hope we come back and continue our travels here. 
Ceri 24/04

Ceri as usual has a good turn of phrase . Little to add but the swim in Lake Titicaca was something I had promised myself and apart from being out of breath after a few strokes wasn’t too cold . Watching South American football in Medellin was great too and what well mannered players they were 

What was our favourite country I hear you ask . Well there weren’t any . They all have memories and scenery to match . Some we spent longer in than others . Another question is how much did we plan . I can honestly say that apart from our air fare to Rio and prebooking the campervan, we pre booked nothing . Maybe for us that’s the best way to travel . With good IT then everything can happen as you travel. Our ‘modus operandi ‘was then to probably book no more than a night ahead . Travel is so easy in South America we learnt just to turn up at a bus station and the wait was never longer than 30 minutes . So keen are they for business that on one occasion competing collectivos had Ceri and my luggage on competing vans ! 

So in summary apart from the obvious statement that Ceri and I are very much in love as we both were when we left , I realise that she is also my best friend .

FIN